Closing it Out (and a bit about Nashville Food)

I know it has been a few weeks since the end of the National Preservation Conference, but I wanted to make sure to provide a closing post. On Friday after dispatching the last of the field sessions those remaining in town made our way over to BB Kings for the Final Fling which included a live auction and music from Last Train Home.

Interior of the Downtown Pres. ChurchBut there was more to come. Saturday dawned bright and early for us with the Closing Plenary in the Downtown Presbyterian Church, an example of Egyptian Revival architecture. We were about to be treated to a talk by Chief Justice of Indiana Randall Shepard and Congressman and Civil Rights Leader John Lewis of Georgia.

Fisk Jubilee SingersBefore we talk about them let me say a few words about the Fisk Jubilee Singers. First started in 1876 as a means to raise money for Fisk University (the first American University to offer a liberal arts education without any stipulations as to race) the group is now known for preserving one of America’s greatest treasures—that which the website refers to as the negro spiritual. Let me say from first hand experiences that those voices rose in perfect harmony, bouncing off the walls with a clarity and resonance so vivid and vital that I got chills.

As for the talks-despite coming from two tangentially different directions (preservation and law/preservation and civil rights/politics)-Chief Justice Shepard and Congressman Lewis had ultimately one message for preservationists. The Chief Justice surmised our mission in one eloquent sentence, that “we stand up for livability, for a sense of place and architecture that lifts up the soul rather than deadens it.” His words were followed quickly by a call for continued agitation by Congressman Lewis who proclaimed that “If we do not fight for these places then history wont be kind to us.” In both speeches there was a rallying call that said, to borrow a popular phrase from the National Trust at this conference, what we do matters. That preserving buildings, music, and the spectacular architecture that Nashville has to offer effects how people live and breathe and connect with the world around them.

This dialogue intermingled with my thoughts on the music, the lights and the life in Tennessee and led me to ponder the following question: Where do we go from here?

Union Station Hotel in Nashville

All right. Maybe not. But it does allow me to segue into the final event of the conference (for me at least) which was the Forum Lunch, and I urge everyone who is interested on where Preservation should be and could be going in the next fifty years to take a look at Don Rypkema’s talk here. Particularly intriguing for me was his assertion that as historic preservationists we should work (at least in urban areas) to manage change over time and not necessarily a point fixed in time. At the heart of his talk he is asking us about how we remain relevant in a world that incorrectly sees history and historic preservation as a luxury, as something that will not create jobs, will not help the economy, and is not important enough to consider a priority at every level of living. He says that we are evolving–(for those not familiar with it, This Place Matters is a program of the National Trust that asks citizens to look at the world around them and identify the places that matter to them.)

Here is my test – look at what made the list of the National Trust’s “This Place Matters” program. Virtually none of the finalists met the test of either being an architectural masterpiece or of particular significance to our national history. Those places were nominated because they mattered to the local community and in many cases not on architectural grounds. I for one think that is a wonderful way for historic preservation to have evolved.

Stained Glass at Union Station Hotel

I say that this is exceedingly clear when we think about the evolution of historical thought in the last few decades. We have moved from looking only at the big men of history to understanding the everyday—the people on the streets, the forgotten and the silenced. Social history has done amazing things for democratizing what we know about our pasts and our future—we can now step inside museums and watch on television stories that make connections on a more visceral level than before. It is the same way with Historic Preservation whose history may have began with the rich and the elite but has long since moved to a movement that seeks to preserve the places we live in, the character of neighborhoods, the places that, in essence, make the world unique and diverse in every sense of the word.

So I think my one takeaway from this conference is that we have to be open to expanding our definitions and boundaries, looking to new horizons to let the past and present stand the test into the future.

Shrimp & Grits from Prime 108Whew. Did you think I was going to forget to talk about the food?

This is one of those towns where being a Vegetarian is really difficult—luckily I eat chicken, and boy did I eat a lot of it.

Here are my recommendations:

  1. The Fried Chicken at BB Kings
  2. While the Mac n’ Cheese I had at Robert Hicks’ house was to die for, I’ll just say that Nashvillians know how to make a mean mac n’ cheese.Mike's Ice Cream Fountain-Ceiling detail
  3. Make sure to check out Mike’s on Broadway by the River where you can get some of the most delicious ice cream cones out there.
  4. For brunch—go fancy and hit up the Wyndham Union Station (Prime 108) where I had some delicious French Toast, and my friend had some true southern grits with shrimp. While we waited for food we ogled the stained glass windows.

Don’t forget to Check out the pictures on Picasa!

National Preservation Conference in Nashville

Eating our way through the Windy City–or Can I just have six tacos?

Though we were in Chicago for a little over 24 hours we ended up doing a whirlwind tour of places I have eaten at before. That’s right—they were all so good I couldn’t help but go back.

Dinner Friday was at the Green Zebra

Some of the things I tried:

  • Thai Spiced Carrot Soup, crispy rice noodles: a nice amount of heat, and perfect for the slightly chillly evening
  • Chilled Sweet Corn Soup, breakfast radish, parsley: sweet, and tastes like what you would expect
  • Farro Risotto, lemon gremolada, zucchini, sweet peppers, mascarpone: the only dish I wasn’t huge on, the risotto was a little bland, but the veggies were really good.
  • Fresh Burrata Cheese, candied olive, lemon, fava beans, tempura squash blossom: A nice cheese, not too sharp, not too bland great texture and flavors (especially with the olives)
  • Honey Hazelnut S’more: How can I love thee…let me count the ways.
  • Five Spice Doughnuts: Doughnuts! Doughnuts! Doughnuts!
Chai French Toast at Orange
Chai French Toast at Orange

Brunch on Saturday was great following a six mile run (Army Ten-Miler in 3 weeks!)

This is what we had at Orange

  • Chai French Toast (It has ricotta cheese in the middle, just think about that).
  • Rosemary French Toast
  • Eggs Benedict
  • Fresh juices

…and an atmosphere is cute, cute, cute. Did I mention you can get orange flavored coffee for those who like inventive coffees.

Plantains at Frontera Grill
Plantains at Frontera Grill

Now we’re coming to the best part. For those of you who know about food I’m sure you had heard about Rick Bayliss long before he won Top Chef Masters this summer. We should have thought about making reservations a long time ago but for reasons I can’t explain we didn’t. So my friend and I headed over to Frontera Grill and Topolobampo at about 4:50pm on Saturday only to discover that the line was out the door and around the corner.

We got in, put our names down for the 2-3 hour wait, then proceeded to stalk the bar tables. An hour later after having a four top stolen from right under our noses (we had recruited a couple from Baltimore to sit with us), we sat down next to a table of U2 concert-goers. They were having a nice sociable conversation with another group of four who were clearly stalking their table.

Then the drama began. The U2 goers departed, the new group sat down. Man 1 is on the phone, Man 2 is tried to get his lime in a bottle of Corona, lime juice sprays everywhere including inside Man 1’s eyes. Man 1 freaks-out talking about how he’s been attacked by juice (now its not angry freaking out, its over the top drama queen freaking out).

Then the waiter comes to get their order and Man 2 says this is what he wants:

Six hard taco shells with nothing but beef.

The poor waiter tried to explain the options for tacos, including that they don’t have hard taco’s. The guy then says–

All I want are six tacos. Three hard and three soft. The beef on the side.

So my question is—why come to a four star Mexican restaurant when you want Taco Bell level food?

Chicken Enchilada's at Frontera Grill
Chicken Enchilada's at Frontera Grill

Anyway—This is what I got:

  • Chicken Enchiladas: Beautiful Mole sauce.
  • Fried Plantains: Sweet, and tasty.

While we had to eat pretty fast (the concert started at 7 and we decided to forgo seeing Snow Patrol) and it was 7 when we got our food, it was just delicious.

So when you’re in Chicago check out all these places and eat your heart out!

Philly by Food

Continental Midtown
Continental Midtown

While I was in Philadelphia I ate at some fantastic places.

Mugshots

Right across from Eastern State this place has a little fun with its location serving meals with names that fit right in with the criminal justice system. Things like Bonnie & Clyde or like my sandwich “The Scapegoat” which is local garlic herb goat cheese, with spinach, tomato, red onion and pesto on ciabatta. I love goat cheese.

Capogiro’s
Really Really good Gelato. Enough said.

El Vez
A Stephen Starr restaurant this place has great ambiance. I ate here for New Years a few years ago  and loved it.  This weekend we had the black bean enchilada and the chicken taco’s and some tasty sangria. All good, and with a giant motorcycle rotating around the bar it was a great meal!

Tria
After El Vez we made are way over to Tria for some desert. The Lemon tart/cake had just the right amount of  tartness combined with sweet delicious blueberry compote.

I had a delicious cabot clothbound chedder from Vermont and we tried a Tawny Port ( “10 YR. OLD,” RAMOS PINTO, NV) from Portugal and a Port “Ink Grade Vineyard” Heitz Cellars, NV from Napa. We both liked the second Port better than the first (a little less of an aftertaste).

Continental Midtown

madnarin orange and coconut
mandarin orange and coconut

I’m just going to list what we got. Visit the website and check out the pics here and on my picasa page. This is a great little place. Chic and really trendy.

We started out the meal with a orange and coconut palatte cleanser. I had the Corn and pepper omelet  with Nutella toast. My friend had banana fritters (get these!) and a breakfast quesadilla.

So, next time you’re in Philly check some of these places out.